CABO DA ROCA Where the land ends - the ocean begins

Cabo da Roca, a landmark located at the westernmost point on the mainland of Portugal and Europe, is increasingly known as a meaningful stopover for travelers. At the latitude 38⁰47’ North and longitude 9⁰30’ West and just 40 kilometers west of Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, this place remains isolated and unspoiled. Majestic cliffs, fierce waves from the Atlantic and strange vegetation with colorful Sour Fig flowers blooming everywhere have created a spectacle and breathtaking Cabo da Roca.

            The road that led me from Lisbon to Cabo da Roca followed the Southern coastal arc of the city, went throught the sea-color Cascais and headed to the West. Perhaps, it is the intention of the indigenous people to keep this place wild and a little lonely. Therefore, even though not far from Lisbon, Cabo da Roca offers a feeling of loneliness and distance, completely contrast to the bustling metropolis nearby. Standing here, all the colors of the city have receded, leaving only the sharp roughness of jagged cliffs, the wide and high sky, the everlasting blue ocean and the wind that is constantly blowing against the shore. This place used to be called "The edge of the world - the end of the green continent" for centuries.

            What Cabo da Roca offers travelers is not only breathtaking sights, but also wild excitement as if they have reached the end of the earth. There is not much to see in this place except for the vast ocean. All facilitis you can see here is a small parking lot, a cafe shop and a humble souvenir stand. This place also has a landmark with a stone plaque at its base and a cross on the top, a lighthouse on top of the mountain and a magnificent stone monument. One side of the monument was inscribed with the emotional words of the famous Portuguese poet Luis Camoes (1524-1580), who described this place on his visit here: "Where the land ends, the ocean begins".

            Cabo da Roca has been known for centuries. During the Maritime era (1571-1862), this place was known as the "Rock of Lisbon" - the cornerstone of Lisbon and played an important role for the protection of the city citadel. According to some historical books, in 17th century this place had a fortress located on top of the mountain, making important contribution to the protection of the Lisbon port and forming a solid defense line along the shore. The fortress had military significance, especially during the Peninsular War. Today, what remains from that fortress is just a faint mark. But in that position, the lighthouse has continued to quietly illuminate and guide boats to navigating safely through this area.

            Portugal has been known as a maritime power for decades. Today, along its coast, there remain many traces of the marina, seaport, lighthouse, monument, etc, which marked the golden age of its maritime history. In the ocean-infused pages of this country, Cabo da Roca was written in an important chapter. In 1772, the first lighthouse, which was 150 meters high and fixed with a 1000w light bulb that could reach a distance of 46 km, was built and has become the backbone for sea traffic here. Before that, Cabo da Roca was known as a "dark place" because it was dangerous for ships to pass through this area.

            In 1842, the lighthouse was remodeled and reshaped that looked like the present one. I followed small trails to reach the lighthouse. From there, I could see the panoramic sea of ​​Serra de Sintra with a long coastline. The dark blues Atlantic surrounded by jagged cliffs and mixed with bright sunlight have created a beautiful scene here.

            I followed the trails around the island, which are windy and challenging, to see the scene from another angles. The sea here is, indeed, sourrounded by high coastlines because there is no place one can get access to water. The whole sea is surrounded by granite cliffs with vertical slopes, more or less than one hundred meters high, which are traces of sharp cuts from nature's tectonics. There are many bizarre crystal rocks in different shapes. Some bent and cracked after periods of sediment settlement. The others have a somewhat magical pink. These are the evidences of intense and ferocious coastal erosion caused by fierce Atlantic waves.

            The vegetation here is also quite unique because Sour Fig flowers with succulent stalks, small and multicolored petals grow everywhere. This kind of plant is "small but has strange power"; althought it is not a native plant, it has gradually invaded and pushed other plants away to occupy almost the entire area. Sour Fig flower, which lookes like Portulaca grandiflora and is jokingly called “small and mischievous plant” by local people, escaped from a local garden in the suburbs of Lisbon more than 3 decades ago, come here and has become the only plant growing in this place. The Sour Fig flower is low and grows close to the ground; therefore, it can grow well despite of salty and strong wind. Every few steps I saw a few flowers in bloom. Its carefree littleness does, indeed, turn the aggressive space into a pleasant scene like the story of a giant and a pretty little girl in a fairy tale. What a lovely scene. Many migratory birds and seabirds also hovered around the beach, chirping days and nights in the endless nature.

            Sunset gradually appeared in the sky of Cabo da Roca and covered the entire area a color of sadness. Ocean waves hit against the cliffs days and nights. The sight of small roads along the coast gradually fainted, urging me to come back in regret. The scene here, majestic and lonely, left me with not only strong emotions but also a bit of deep nostalgia.